The first mention, giving at least some information about the clothes worn in Ancient Russia, historians connect with the era of Kievan Rus. It is worth noting that the outfits of that time were characterized by some features by which it was possible to determine the lifestyle of people of that period, their attitude to the world and their views. Clothing of that time had its own personality. Although, in some details, elements that were previously used in outfits of other nations can be traced.
What characteristics distinguished clothes of Ancient Russia
Already in those days, people perceived clothing as an integral attribute that protected them from temperature changes, and as a kind of amulet that protects its owner from the effects of evil spirits. To enhance the protective effect, clothes were supplemented with a special ornament, embroidery or all kinds of amulets and jewelry.
The overall structure of the costume of ordinary and noble people was largely similar. The main difference was in the materials that were used for sewing clothes. In the peasant’s wardrobe, only linen items could be found, and the upper classes could also boast of expensive fabrics brought from other countries.
The main clothes for the children were long, loose-fitting shirts. Both boys and girls went to them. Especially for children, they didn’t sew; they were changed from already worn parental outfits. This is no accident. An ancient belief of that time stated that clothes so altered in this way for a child have strong protective properties and are a talisman for him.
Another belief claimed that it was able to absorb the human spirit and strength. If you transfer it to another person for wearing, then it will transfer all the good qualities to the new owner. It is for this reason that father’s clothes were altered for sons, and mother’s dresses for daughters.
Colors in traditional costumes
The appearance of a resident of Ancient Russia for a long time was restored according to the sources of chronicles, ancient images in ancient temples, archaeological excavations, during which fragments of tissues were discovered.
The Russian people experienced a special craving for red. In the understanding of that time, it was precisely this shade in terms of sound that was closest to the concept of “beautiful”, “beautiful”. No wonder it was in those days that the steady expressions “red fellow”, “red damsel”, “red sun” appeared. This color is predominant in the choice of fabrics for clothes and scarves.
Any item of clothing in ancient Russia was called the single term "port", which formed the basis for the name of men's trousers (portka). In the future, the profession itself appeared - a tailor.
If the Russian men's suit was not particularly diverse, then in the women's outfit there were significant differences by which it was possible to determine belonging to the northern or southern regions. Whereas in warm regions girls and women wore shirts, skirts, ponevs and rocking, in northern regions sundresses and kokoshniks were added to shirts. The latter were the most elegant elements of any clothing.
Women's hats of all regions in their design were much more complicated than men's hats and carried a semantic load. We all at least once saw Russian beauties in a kokoshnik. Let us dwell on this headdress.
The first information about the kokoshnik
For the first time, the term "kokoshnik" is mentioned in historical documents of the 16th century. Its origin has ancient Slavic roots. In the literal translation, “kokoshnik” is “hen-hen” or “rooster”. It was a festively embroidered headdress for women, which was an indispensable element of national dress.
A distinctive feature of this headgear was a comb. Different regions were characterized by their own form. For some, it outwardly resembled arrowheads, other provinces were rich in kokoshniks-crescents, and in others it was possible to meet kokoshniks called “magpies”, “heels” and “gold-domed”.
The shape of the product depended on the traditional hairstyle in each region. Somewhere it was customary to collect hair in a tight braid that was wrapped around the head, or in braids that were laid on the back of the head or at the temples.
How did kokoshnik appear as a headdress in a female Russian national costume?
Versions of the origin of Kokoshnik
The main version of the appearance of the headdress of the kokoshnik is of Byzantine origin. Even in ancient times, the hairstyles of noble Greek women were decorated with tiaras, which were fastened with ribbons in the hair. But such beauty could be built only by unmarried girls. Married ladies were deprived of this opportunity by throwing a veil over their hair.
There is an opinion that acquaintance with this Byzantine tradition occurred during the period of trade Russian-Byzantine relations. The princely daughters gladly introduced the high female hats of Greek women into their wardrobe.
The second, later version of the origin is associated with the invasion of the Mongol-Tatar yoke. The soldiers had a headdress resembling a female kokoshnik, which was probably borrowed by Ancient Russia, but only as a female element of the national costume.
Where in Russia could you meet a kokoshnik?
A little later, the kokoshnik could be seen not only in the peasant class, but also among the nobility and dignitaries in court costumes. Empress Catherine ll, for example, loved to pose in the process of painting portraits in this particular headdress. Thus, she tried to demonstrate her closeness to ordinary people. And the courtiers who came to masquerades in such headgear received special favor and encouragement from the empress.
Nicholas l from 1834 at the court introduced a special women's costume with a kokoshnik. The basis of it was a dress and a corresponding hat. Kokoshnik special colors, finishes and shapes was prescribed only for married young ladies of various court status.
Empress Maria Fyodorovna, wife of Alexander lll, had among her jewelry a diamond tiara, the appearance of which resembled a kokoshnik. Her sister Alexandra could not resist such beauty and ordered a similar one. Since then, kokoshniks made of precious stones have come into fashion.
How was a headdress like a kokoshnik worn?
In Russia, an ancient Slavic custom ruled, according to which the headgear of girls and married women had differences. They wore not only different hats, but also hairstyles. If the girls in the kokoshnik were allowed to walk with loose hair or a braid, then married women had to braid two braids and completely cover their heads. In this regard, and hats had significant differences. The head of a married lady was completely covered with matter, which symbolized marital status. The kokoshnik with a veil, which was decorated with beads and embroidery, was very popular.
The girl in the kokoshnik with long flowing hair was the standard of beauty. But to expose uncovered curls to a married lady on public display was indecent in those days. It was considered a great sin if someone other than the husband sees the hair on display. There was a belief that the hair of a married woman has a negative effect on men, attracting evil powers to them.
Kokoshnik value
Kokoshniks are hats that gained particular value at the end of the 18th century. They used galun, and in rare cases brocade, embroidered with gold and silver threads, sewed faceted rhinestones and colored foil. The basis of the headdress was silk or velvet.
Each woman could make most of the products on her own, decorating with them not only her own, but also the heads of her daughters and granddaughters, while skilled craftswomen with professional skills in needlework and embroidery were engaged in the manufacture of kokoshniks.
The main centers of their production in those days were Verkhny Mamon and Pavlovsk. Such products cost a lot of money. Therefore, they were kept as a family heirloom and passed from mother to daughter, older sisters - to younger ones, and even granddaughters and granddaughters nieces.
Wealthy brides always had a kokoshnik on their dowry list. It was customary to wear it on the wedding day and on subsequent major holidays until the birth of the baby. After this, the kokoshnik was removed and replaced by shawls and other hats.
Significant elements of the kokoshnik
Kokoshnik's decoration in the form of an ornament was of great importance. The middle of the headdress was usually decorated with a stylized “frog”, which symbolized fertility, on the sides there were figures of swans, which since ancient times have been a symbol of fidelity of the spouses. On the back there was a tree of life in the form of a bush. The branches of the plant marked the next generation. On each branch were birds, fruits, and other significant symbols.
Fashion takes precedence over tradition
The latest known kokoshniks are hats resembling hats. The ornament was present, but it has completely changed. Now it was represented only by two elements - a brush of grapes and a scarlet rose. The headgear retained its historical ideas in itself longer than any other elements, while accumulating new trends in its image. Traditional women’s Russian folk costume, over time, is replaced by fashionable. Together with him, replaced kokoshnik came printed and cotton scarves, ladies' hats.
