Experts call the Udmurt national costume the most striking, lively and colorful among the peoples of Russia and the former CIS countries. A typical combination of colors is white, black and red. In the national costume of the Udmurts from the beginning of the 19th century, three complexes began to stand out:
- the northern suit was three-colored;
- southern - multicolor;
- Beserman.
Headgear of the Northern Complex
Udmurt women's costume has several options for headgear:
- cap;
- cover;
- towel;
- bandage.
The generally accepted girl’s headdress is takya, a canvas hat decorated with coins and bag. Children wore cotres with takya, it has a round shape, older girls have a more elongated kuzales takya. In addition to that, canvas headbands were also popular, which were necessarily made out with ribbons, posture, embroidery or sparkles. Shawls were hidden from chintz or white host. On holidays, girls put on painted cashmere or silk scarves. Married women wore colorfully embroidered head towels: yyr kotyr, weighing heavily. Men's hats did not differ in such a variety: in the summer they put on felted hats, in winter - sheepskin hats.
Southern hats
- Hats: dumplings.
- Headbands: yyrkerttat, tyatyak and ukotyug.
- Towel: yorkyshet or turban.
- Aishon.
- Scarves.
Udmurt girls put on headbands with scarves. Ukotyuk is a complicated hat. Strips of gown with dense fringe, wooden pendants, gimped yarns, and sequins were sewn onto kumach or canvas. Headbands for adult women (yyrkerttet) stood out with sewn-in coins and beads. Aishon is a Udmurt analogue of the Russian kokoshnik. The base was made of birch bark, sheathed with canvas and, of course, decorated with beads, beads and coins in front. A syulik was put on top of the aishon - a white embroidered canvas. The wedding dress had an important distinguishing feature - massive black embroidery and tassels on the sides of black and red threads. From the day of the wedding, right up to the birth of the first-born, women wore a black coat, then red until old age.
Women's Udmurt national costume
The female North Udmurt outfit is an ancient and simple type of clothing. The basis was a shirt dress: straight, dense material, rectangular sleeves, a triangular or oval neckline without a collar. The hem and sleeves of the dress were traditionally decorated with embroidery. The transverse embroidery with a rosette was called koltyrmach, and the relief longitudinal with a rhomboid pattern was called gorden. The Udmurt women's costume of the northerners necessarily includes a swinging caftan shortdare. His cut is like a shirt, only the collar was square turndown and the sleeves are short. Shortdarem was richly decorated with beads, coins, kauri, strips of kumach and embroidery on the hem and collar. There were many ways to finish the caftan:
- zok kumak ponem - a lot of kumach;
- pichi kumach ponem - a little kumach;
- kotyr kumach ponem - a strip of kumach around the entire caftan;
- kotulo - a wide strip of kumach to the waistline;
- kotrah tachyoko - embroidered on floors, hem and shoulders;
- vozhen shyrym - green embroidery on the hem;
- gorden shyrem - red;
- shoden shyr - black.
It is impossible to imagine the national costume of the Udmurts without an apron (aishet, azkyshet or heshet), sheathed with lace, braid, patterns. The ties were made in the form of tassels from multi-colored pieces of fabric. On holidays, clothes were supplemented with a patterned belt, on which a scarf was hung on the side. Belted everything with a lap on the apron.
The Udmurt national costume as footwear provides for bast bast shoes according to the Russian model. On holidays, Udmurt folk bast shoes were put on, which have a trapezoidal shape of the sock. Under the bast shoes, the Udmurts put on thick white canvas stockings of chugles, the upper fabric was beautifully embroidered with patterns or kumach. Patterned thin Marchanchugles were pulled over the stockings.
