For many generations, the Japanese style was determined by one type of clothing - kimono. Historically significant, aesthetically appealing and full of symbolism, it represents the exquisite elegance of Japanese culture and design, proving that clothing can symbolize the culture of an entire state. Its history begins from the VIII century and continues to the present, until now it plays a significant role in modern Japanese culture.
Due to the popularity in the West at the beginning of the last century, ukiyo-e prints, a girl dressed in a kimono has become one of the most significant images of Japan.
What is a kimono
The word itself is literally translated from Japanese as "clothing." It consists of two characters - ki ("wearing") and mono ("thing"). It has long been traditional Japanese clothing. Over time, this term began to be used in two meanings: in the broad it means all clothes as such, in the narrow - a variant of traditional Japanese clothes called wafuku. There are not only several types of it, but also traditional patterns and colors of the fabric used for its sewing. Usually they are sewn manually in the shape of the letter "T" from 4 separate pieces of matter.
In addition to the unique aesthetics, a kimono is appreciated for its symbolism: style, motif of the picture, color and material help reflect the individuality of the owner.
Style
There are different types of kimonos for different occasions and seasons, including for men. The type is dictated by a number of specific criteria, including gender, marital status and the event on which the outfit is worn. For example, an unmarried woman will wear a furisode (“fluttering sleeves”) at a formal event - a special type of clothing with long sleeves, while a man who owns a store will wear a special type of jacket.
Studying the symbolism of traditional Japanese clothing helps foreigners better understand what kimono is.
Patterns
Templates, symbols and other drawings also indicate the status of the owner, personality traits and virtues. Like engravings, elements inspired by nature, such as leaves, flowers and birds (namely cranes) are popular motifs.
The pattern depended on the time of year when clothes were worn. For example, fabric with butterflies or sakura flowers was used to sew clothes that were worn in the spring, the theme of water was used for summer clothes, for autumn - maple leaves, for winter - pine or bamboo.
Color
In addition to the pattern, the colors of the kimono also have a symbolic meaning. In addition, the pigments used to achieve certain shades are also characteristic. Dyes, apparently, are the embodiment of the spirit of the plants from which they are extracted. Any medicinal properties of plants are also considered transferred to the tissue. For example, blue comes from indigo, which is used to treat bites, so it was believed that wearing blue fabric avoids the bites of snakes and insects.
Particular importance was attached to color several centuries ago. For example, clothing in red and purple was pretty significant. Therefore, one of the traditions was that only members of the imperial family could wear such a kimono. Colored clothes with bright patterns were forbidden to be worn by commoners.
Currently, the color of the dress depends on the degree of formality of the ceremony. When performing a full ceremony, only a black kimono is worn. For example, the most official women's clothing is a black tomsode with a pattern placed only on the hem. Less formal - an irotomesode - similar to a kimono of any other color. In particular, at the wedding ceremony, the bride’s relatives can only be dressed in black clothes, and the bride’s girlfriends can wear a dressing gown.
Production material
The kimono is made from various handmade fabrics. Traditionally used cotton, silk, satin and hemp. Today, materials such as a mixture of cotton and polyester, and various synthetic materials are often used. However, it is not surprising that traditional non-synthetic fabrics are preferred.
Old clothes, as a rule, were not thrown away. She went to make haori (a jacket worn on top) or a kimono for children.
History and evolution
During the Heian period (794-1192), an early, easy-to-use kimono prototype appeared in Japan. As at present, this garment consisted of straight sections of fabric and was intended for all sizes and types of body.
In the end, in the Edo era (1603-1868), this type of clothing was called a Kosode, which literally translates as "small sleeves", while the size of this type of clothing decreased. Kosode played a particularly important role during this period, since it was worn by all the Japanese, despite his social status, age, or gender. Thus, in order to express their individuality and "describe" themselves, they were looking for ways to give individuality to their skoda.
During the Meiji period (1868-1912), the transformation of the cosode took place. The difference between this type of clothing was that such a kimono, unlike its predecessor, was worn mainly by women. Nevertheless, despite these small changes, the main function of clothing - a visual message - remains unchanged today.
Kimono Details
It consists of several parts:
- two collars - laid on and the main;
- two body parts - right and left, which, in turn, can be divided into front and back;
- sleeves (soda);
- inserts sewn on the front to the body parts;
- edges (okumi), sewn on the inserts from the edge of the collar to the floor of the product.
Modern japanese traditional clothing
So, what is a kimono in the traditional sense, it is already clear. But today, designers and artists have rethought this concept. They came up with unique ways to preserve the Japanese heritage and demonstrate its beauty. Very often, models put on the outfit, as the kimono looks very impressive in the photo.
Besides the kimonos worn by older people or traditional artists daily, it is not very common these days, but it is still worn in special occasions such as weddings and funeral ceremonies.
In part, the popularity of the outfit declined due to its very high cost. Also, for many, the problem is putting it on and tying an obi (decorative belt): all this is a complex procedure that goes beyond the capabilities of many modern young women. The problem, as a rule, is connected not only with how to put on this element of the wardrobe - you also need to be able to tie a kimono. To do the right thing, girls should ask their mothers to help them or take a course at a special school.
Wearing Traditional Clothing in Modern Japan
Women now wear kimonos when they practice traditional arts such as the tea ceremony or attend ikebana classes. Girls and young single women wear furisode - a colorful kimono with long sleeves, tied with a bright obi. Made of fabric with simple geometric patterns, it is called edo-comon and is considered everyday.
At weddings, the bride and groom often change clothes several times. Shiromuku is traditional for the bride - a heavy, embroidered white kimono. The groom wears black clothes made of silk, which depicts a family coat of arms, hakamu (wide trousers or trousers with pleats) and black haori.
In January, every year, twenty-year-old girls and boys celebrate their majority. For a holiday put on a traditional Japanese outfit. Most women wear vibrant kimonos, often with fur boas. He is also worn for the New Year. Children's kimonos are worn on Shichi-go-san festival, during which children’s birthdays are celebrated everywhere.
In the cold season, kimonos made from woolen fabrics are sometimes worn. Light cotton yukata are worn by men and women in the summer months and after bathing in the onsen (hot spring resorts) and in the riverside (traditional hotels). They are often worn with wooden shoes. Today, bright yukata colors are common at summer festivals and during fireworks and are especially popular among young women and children.
Types of Kimono
In addition to the already mentioned types of traditional attire, there are others.
Children's casual kimono is called hanten. Female species include:
- Yukatu is casual clothing, which is a lightweight cotton bathrobe. It is worn in the warm season and at home, most often they are sewn from pastel-colored fabrics with floral motifs.
- Iromuji, which is also everyday clothing worn for some ceremonies, art classes or certain crafts.
- Komon is another type of casual wear that is rich in jewelry.
- Tsukesagi - plain "exit" clothing.
- Kurotomesode - black clothes with expensive finishes, designed for married women who attend important events.
Men's kimonos are not so diverse:
- samu - everyday clothing that is worn for physical work, it is made of black or gray fabric;
- dzinbey is an analogue of a yukata, in addition to a cotton jacket, shorts are also worn;
- tanzen - outerwear, Japanese version of the coat;
- Happ, which is a universal jacket with narrow sleeves, which is sewn from cotton.
It is a mistake to call kimono clothes for practicing traditional martial arts. In fact, such clothes are called dogs in a broad sense, and the name variations depend on one or another type of martial arts: karategi for karate, judogi for judo, etc.
How to wear a kimono
Together with traditional clothes, tabi (white cotton socks) are worn; it is also necessary to wear underwear - hadadzuban (only women use it); then Nagajuban, the lower cotton kimono. A kimono is smelled from left to right, regardless of whether it is worn by a man or a woman. Since traditionally this clothing has no buttons, special ties and obi - a belt for kimono are used to maintain it.
When wearing about two centimeters, the kaneri (collar) of the nagayuban should peek over the kimono collar. According to tradition, the collar should cover the neck, which is considered one of the most sensual parts of the female body. Only a geisha can wear a loose collar that opens a place where the neck goes to the back.
