In the Buryat steppe, near the ridge called Hamar-Daban, which is located near the village of Ivolginsk, the Buddhist religious capital of the country is located - a magnificent datsan. When the weather is clear, beautiful gilded temples shine and shimmer, from afar welcoming tourists and pilgrims. It seems that time has stopped its course …
Hural schedule
Many tourists are interested in the Ivolginsky datsan. The timetable of the hurals can be found in the information and visit center located at the monastery. Call there by the following toll-free number: 8-800-1003-108. It is better to contact from 8:30 to 21:00.
The foundation of the Ivolginsky datsan and other spiritual centers
Since 1937 in our country there were no officially functioning Buddhist temples. But after the Second World War, authorities allowed believers to establish two monasteries - in the Aginsky district, as well as in Buryatia. Why this decision was made is still unknown. Old lamas who returned from hard labor, and even ordinary people, founded near the village of Verkhnyaya Ivolga "Tuges Bayashkhalantay Ulza Noya Khurdyn Khiyd". This translates as “A monastery standing on the territory where the Wheel of the Teaching revives, giving Joy and filled with Happiness.” It was discovered at the beginning of the winter of 1945. For several decades, this datsan was the only sacred place of Buddhists located in Buryatia, but already in the 1990s, magnificent spiritual centers began to be built again. Believers were very encouraged by these events. But there are a lot of them in Ulan-Ude. Ivolginsky datsan became a real outlet for them. Many began to visit him often enough.
Buddhist University
Soon, in Ivolginsky datsan, a private Buddhist university called “Dasha Choinhorlin” began to function. It happened in 1991. It is currently a unique educational institution, there are no more in our country. His activity is the teaching of Buddhist philosophy and a detailed acquaintance with it. The material is presented as it was many years ago in the monastery schools of Buryatia, even before the revolution.
A little bit about Buddhism
Buddhism is the oldest of the three major religions of the world. Christianity is five centuries younger than him, and Islam is twelve. Buddhism is based on the theory of the Four Noble Truths. They include suffering, its causes and occurrence, the elimination of torment and the sources that give rise to them, and the roads leading to their cessation. The most preferred is the Eightfold (middle) Path, allowing you to immerse yourself in Nirvana. It implies several types of development of virtues: morality, concentration, and also knowledge - prajna. If a person walks along all these roads, he will completely get rid of torment and find peace in Nirvana. All this can be found by visiting the Ivolginsky datsan. Itigelov, of course, was aware of this.
Theravada and Mahayana
It is customary to divide Buddhism into Theravada, as well as Mahayana. This translates as “The Teaching of the Ancients” and “The Great Chariot”. The first is the only existing school of early Buddhism (in other words, Nikaya). This direction is often found in Tibet and Nepal. It also received a small distribution in our country and Japan. From Tibet it migrated to Mongolia, then to Buryatia, at the next stage to Tuva, and finally to the steppes of Kalmykia. Mahayana appeared relatively recently. Its characteristic feature is the theory of Bodhichitta, in other words, the desire to save absolutely all creatures living on earth. It implies infinite mercy and compassion for them. This theory also includes the concept of a Bodhisattva - a person who can neglect individual immersion in Nirvana in order to save everyone living on earth. Mahayana is characteristic of Tibetan and Chinese Buddhism, as well as some autonomous schools. The features and important points of these theories are so twisted and inaccessible to an outside observer that it takes a huge amount of time to explain them, and even this is not a fact that a person will really understand everything. But everyone who wants to get new information is ready to accept Buryatia. Ivolginsky datsan always gladly opens its doors to guests. Therefore, you can go there without a moment doubting the correctness of your decision.
Hambo Lama Itigelov
The body of Lama Itigelov, which is very well preserved, is stored in the Ivolginsky datsan. You can read about it in the scientific literature. Researchers have been arguing about this phenomenon for several years.
On June 15, 1927, when Khambo Lama (a position comparable to the Orthodox Metropolitan) Itigelov was 75 years old, he asked the monks living in the Yangazhinsky datsan to read a prayer for him in case of death. It was called “Nougat Namshi” (“Benevolence to the Dying”). The monks were absolutely confused and did not know what to do, and then Itigelov was the first to say the words of prayer. The Lamas had to support him. When the prayer was completed, and Itigelov no longer showed signs of life and seemed dead, they, as indicated in the will, put him in a sarcophagus (it is called bohkhan) in a lotus position and buried in the village of Hukhe Zurhen. There is now Ivolginsk. Of course, this name does not mean anything to many at all. Tourists traveling to Ivolginsky datsan should always have a map at hand.
Removing the body from the sarcophagus
The monks complied with the request set forth in Itigelov’s testament: in 1955, Lama Lubsan Nima Darmaev, together with the inhabitants of the monastery, lifted a boomhan with a body, and then, making sure of its safety, performed the necessary rituals, dressed him up and put him back in the sarcophagus. In 1973, another inspection of the deceased was carried out.
On September 10, 2002, Lama Damba Ayusheev, along with several monks of the Ivolginsky datsan, accompanied by secular people (criminologists, etc.), opened the Itigelov’s sarcophagus. It was in the same form as before, no signs of drying out or decay were found. After performing the necessary rituals, Itigelov’s body was taken to Ivolginsky datsan. There a separate palace was erected for him. The llamas of the Ivolginsky datsan did their duty.
Unexplained phenomenon
In the same year, experts took some samples - pieces of the epidermis, nails, and hair. Based on the experiments carried out by the forensic doctors, it was concluded that Itigelov's protein fractions are as if he were still alive. Scientists do not know how to comment on this phenomenon. Doctors are also confused. Many people come to the datsan to bow to the perfectly preserved body. They believe that this is a real miracle.
Simple rules
Ivolginsky datsan is not a museum, but a functioning monastery. Going there on an excursion, it is necessary to observe some requirements. Some of the Russian people seem quite ordinary, others - very exotic. Being in the square of the walls, you can not smoke, throw garbage and swear. Girls are better off coming to the Ivolginsky datsan in fairly long dresses.
Shooting in the temples is prohibited, but you can take pictures on the street. This is where mundane demands end.
Unusual requirements
While in the temple, it is necessary to remove caps, hats and caps. You can not hang a backpack or bag on your shoulder, it is recommended to carry them in your hand or put them near the door. It is forbidden to turn your back on the paintings on which the Buddha and the saints are painted, as well as on the body of Itigelov. Also, you can not point your finger at them. If there is prayer in the temple, it is forbidden to cross arms and sit with one foot on the other. It must be remembered that the Ivolginsky datsan is a sacred place.
Goros
Having hardly entered the monastery, it is necessary to make a symbolic detour of the datsan border along the path, from the inside. This rite is called Goros. It is necessary to go around the datsan, and just bend around various objects exclusively clockwise, as if in a solar circle.
Entering the door, you need to turn left and walk along the wall until you return to the gate. On this road there are many prayer mills - khurde (drums). They are decorated with hieroglyphs. They contain leaflets with prayers. Twisting khurde (certainly clockwise), a person as if pronounces a sacred text.
