This may seem surprising, but in many large cities, excursion programs often include visits to cemeteries. Quiet corners turn into real open-air museums, where there are no sinister fences and iron fences.
For Europeans, necropolises are cozy places in which the borders between the worlds are erased. Here I want to not only sit in silence, but also take a walk looking at unusual monuments.
Necropolis with a story
Cemetery "Staglieno", located on the outskirts of Genoa, is one of the most beautiful in the world. Gained fame thanks to amazing sculptures, it is considered the main architectural attraction of the city.
At the beginning of the 19th century, on the orders of Napoleon, in every conquered city, cemeteries were transferred beyond its borders. This was done for reasons of hygiene. However, historians argue that Bonaparte was worried not only about the sanitary well-being of the city. He wanted to avoid discrimination and commanded that all graves be the same. And only a special commission would determine whether the deceased deserves a magnificent monument.
Corner of Eternal Peace
In 1804, the most famous architects of Genoa, which was a major cultural center of Italy, developed a project to equip the future place of eternal rest, designed for 60 thousand graves. According to their plan, a copy of the ancient Roman Pantheon in reduced sizes should appear in the center of the necropolis. In 1835, the plan was approved, but construction began only after 9 years. And the first burial took place in January 1851.
At that time, Genoa attracted influential bourgeois who started the tradition of decorating their graves with beautiful tombstones, thereby perpetuating the memory of themselves. Famous Italian masters created stunning creations - mourning sculptures that were placed on the graves. Only wealthy people could afford to buy a place here.
The main attraction of the city
Over time, the Staleno cemetery in Genoa expanded and the number of graves increased. The necropolis was divided into three parts - English, Jewish and Protestant. In addition, there are children's and military zones.
On its territory, burials of famous people located in a semicircle began to appear. So, the last refuge here was found by Giuseppe Mazzini - the Italian revolutionary, Constance Lloyd - the wife of the writer O. Wilde, Fabrizio de Andre - a popular singer, Nino Bixio - a famous politician and others. The ashes of F.A. Poletaeva - a member of the Italian Resistance movement, who died in 1944.
At the end of the XIX century, the complex received the status of the main city attraction. Now the area of the cemetery is 33 hectares, and the number of burials has long exceeded 2 million.
It is still buried here, and the inhabitants of Genoa reserve places in advance, for 5-7 years in advance. When a person dies, his relatives again pay for the burial.
Impressive sculptures
On the territory of the old cemetery "Staglieno", the photo of which you can see in the article, there are many sculptures made in Gothic, symbolic and realistic styles by the most famous masters of Italy. And each of them is a real masterpiece. A.P. Chekhov, who visited Genoa, wrote that he was very surprised by the full-size images of the dead. M. Twain admired the monuments, the lines of which are impeccable, and the faces of the sculptures amazed him with the plausibility of emotions.
Each tombstone is a beautiful sculptural composition, because wealthy families erected truly magnificent statues on the graves of their relatives, sparing no expense. Tourists love to take photos at the Stallieno cemetery in Genoa, admiring the monuments of talented Italian masters.
Pantheon mini copy
One of the most interesting sculptures is the statue of Venus, located next to the main gate. The goddess is depicted as a young woman who is dressed in a light tunic. She holds a high cross in one hand and holds a book in the other. A small chapel was erected behind the architectural work - a mini-copy of the Roman Pantheon with a large dome, marble staircase and a portico with Doric columns. On the sides of the building are statues of prophets carved from marble.
It is from the Pantheon that covered galleries depart, in the niches of which tombstones are installed. Each depression is a family crypt belonging to one family.
Impartial angel
No less interesting work is the sculpture in the cemetery "Staglieno", made by Giulio Monteverde. The "Angel of Resurrection" (the second name is the "Angel of Death") is installed on the grave of the President of the Universal Bank F. Oneto.
A genuine work of art has become a model of a new style of cemetery angels. The uniqueness of creation lies in its androgyny. The estranged eyes of an asexual angel, huge wings behind our backs and arms folded with a cross on our chests symbolize what awaits each of us.
If earlier the messengers of the Lord led the dead to the gates, after which another life was waiting for them, and supported the dead, then this messenger is absolutely impartial, he looks from the side at the person’s departure into oblivion, without any sorrow.
"Eternal Drama"
The most original and soulful composition of the "Staglieno" cemetery can be considered a monument on the grave of the rich merchant Valente Celle. Monteverde created a bronze sculpture that makes a lot of sense. He hints at a kind of dualism between life and death. The latter dances with her future victim - a young and beautiful girl, on whose head a delicate butterfly lurks.
A statue called "Eternal Drama" is a reflection of the futile attempts of a doomed life to escape from the cold paws of imminent death.
Monument to Carlo Rajo
In addition to the dead, sculptors carved their inconsolable relatives in marble. So, for example, the master of Augusto Rivalta depicted all the relatives gathered at the deathbed of the head of a large family, Carlo Rajo. Realistic style was most suitable for expressing the concept of death. The author accurately reproduces the smallest details of both furniture and jewelry, elements of clothing, as well as the emotional state of loved ones saying goodbye to a loved one.
The Italian sculptor refused images of symbolic figures of angels.
Everyone has their own dream
This sculpture has a very interesting history in the "Staglieno" cemetery (Italy). It is curious that this image is not a rich woman, but an ordinary merchant. Katerina Campadonico has lived in poverty all her life. She sold sweet pastries, nuts on the streets of the city and dreamed of saving up money for the monument in the necropolis, where the rich were buried.
The unfortunate woman denied herself everything, working day and night. The inhabitants of Genoa laughed at her poor clothes, but she paid no attention to anyone. And finally her dream came true. She ordered a tombstone for her grave from the famous Lorenzo Orengo, depicting Katerina, holding a string of hazelnuts in her hands, in an expensive dress, wearing a crumpled apron.
The monument was erected before the death of Campodonico, which caused a public outcry. The city authorities called this act absurd, and the church condemned the townswoman for desecrating the necropolis. The woman soon died, and she was magnificently buried under a monument in the Staleno cemetery. And the poor, who were jealous that a simple merchant took a place next to noble people, carried the so-called candles of hope to the grave.
Dissatisfied were only the heirs of Katerina, who wanted to get the money that went to create a marble monument.
Columbarium
Of particular interest is the multi-level columbarium - a very colorful corner with long corridors, burning candles, dust-covered flowers. Here those who could not afford expensive monuments found shelter.
Book in a coffin container
It is curious that 15 years ago a book was published on the Staleno cemetery. Popular American photographer Lee Friedlander, who is considered the genius of a random shot, presented his work made in Genoa. The work was placed in a special container, made in the form of a coffin, which is upholstered in maroon velvet.
The commercial album, released in small print runs, was sold out in a few days.
