The national costume of the Bashkirs was usually multi-layered: the underwear was covered with several layers of the upper: two, three or more thick dressing gowns and, finally, embroidered spruce - a kind of long-coat coat of cloth, leather, felt, fur, sheepskin. The more clothes - the richer the man looked in the eyes of his neighbors. And it did not depend on the weather at all, dressed for the season. To sew the underwear, they used homemade hemp or nettle canvas, usually richly embroidered. Shoes were most often leather.
Yelyan
They sewed this coat on a lining, for men with a straight back, and for women it was fitted and rather flared. For the summer, male yelyan was cut from dark cotton fabrics, and festive cut from velvet, white satin, and silk. But even everyday men’s outerwear was whimsically trimmed: they made stripes made of red cloth on the sleeves, hem, floors, decorated with a braid, embroidery, applique. The national costume of the Bashkirs is exceptionally elegant, even everyday.
Women sewed themselves spruce from silk, satin, colored velvet; the stripes on the sleeves, floors and hem were not only red, but also blue and green, and also alternated with poses. Decorated not only with embroideries and appliqués, but also with coins and corals. And the triangles sewn on the shoulders (yaurynsa) were obligatory. The female national costume of the Bashkirs demanded great skill, patience and perseverance from the seamstress.
Kazakin
A very common type of Bashkir outerwear is Cossack. Until the beginning of the twentieth century, this men's and women's outerwear did not differ much from each other: the uniformly fitted national costume of the Bashkirs with sleeves, a blind fastener and buttons. On each side pockets were surely cut.
But the finish of the male Cossacks is easy to distinguish from the female. The male in decoration is almost simple, not for nothing that he was always uniform for military regiments. The female, on the other hand, embroidered as richly as the spruce: with embroideries and appliqués, with gowns and shiny jewelry.
Features of women's clothing
Women put on dresses, wide trousers, short sleeveless camisoles under the Cossack, and for the celebration - always velvet or silk robes. In winter, a sheepskin coat or a fur coat could be put on top. Also, winter checkmen made of cloth were sewn. However, dressing gowns and fur coats were an indispensable attribute of the holiday, and this also did not depend on the weather and season.
Dressing gowns were extremely elegant: they were embroidered with carnelian, coral, mother of pearl, coins, jewelry plaques. Home-made holiday clothes were cut from home-made fabric embroidered with patterns. Women's national costume of the Bashkirs shows how close to this or that woman needlework.
Women's shoes
The shoes of the Bashkir goldfinches were diverse: shoes, shoes, home-made galoshes made of leather. Everyone wore leather boots - men, women, and children. Women's shoes were also with rich finishes, not just stitching, but also with multi-colored tassels. There were also common bast shoes, which every woman tried to decorate best of all.
The hardworking people are Bashkirs, their national costume is not just individual, but often it is just a work of art. Even their stockings were not just felt, cloth or canvas, they were trimmed with an applique pattern. Knitted stockings made of wool were also trimmed with colored cloth. If we consider the national costumes of the peoples of Russia, the Bashkirs in this series will not be lost, because they attach great importance to the beauty of their clothes.
Hats
The headdress of the Bashkirs is a kind of passport. Looking at such and burek, one could reliably and without any questioning determine what kind of person they are: how old he is, whether this woman is married, what kind of people these people belong to. The cut will tell you everything, and especially the patterns. Hats were usually even brighter than the rest of the clothes decorated with stones, corals, coins. Thus, many ethnic groups of the Urals and Siberia adorn headdresses, for example, Buryats. And Bashkirs prepare national costumes carefully, observing all traditions.
Fur of marten, otter, beaver and other animals was also used. Women put on a burek on a tastar or shawl, which was also wonderfully patterned. Married women wore Kashmau - a cap with a hole on the crown, from where a long elegant ribbon came down. Tastar is a pure white chintz or linen scarf worn by older women under a different hat. Large shawls and goat down scarves were also often worn. Features of the national costume of the Bashkirs are in extremely developed needlework among the female half of this people.
Men's clothing
Men in Bashkiria dressed not only smartly. but also convenient. Pants, camisole, not constraining movements, or caftan. Shirts without collars, with colored lace on the neckline. In winter, sheepskin was indispensable - fur coats, sheepskin coats. The festive shirts are embroidered with traditional patterns, in which a deep meaning was necessarily invested - a memory, a talisman, which very often carry national costumes of peoples. Bashkirs are no exception.
An exclusively male detail is Camer, a traditional wide and very long belt, for the manufacture of which there were cloth, silk, velvet. The belt was decorated with gowns, embroidery, gold and silver jewelry with inserts from pearls, carnelian, agate, turquoise. A belt was worn on yelyan or camisole. Long edges descended to the sides, demonstrating the richness of the finish.
Men's hats
Tubetey - in Russian it sounds and means "skullcap" - the everyday headdress of Buryat men. The elderly preferred dark color, while the young preferred bright blue, green, and red. And again, embroidery … What does a national costume look like? Bashkirs will answer that he is embroidered. This is the main distinguishing feature. In addition to embroidery, for skullcaps were used beads, corals, gown. In the summer, however, Bashkirs very often wear fur hats - this depends entirely on the solemnity of the moment.
Men preferred a more "harsh" fur: wolf, lynx, fox, bear. But the edges of the front fur hat were still bordered from expensive fur - both sable and marten. The steppes loved to wear malachai - kelepera. These caps have a high tulle and have a cavity covering the shoulders and back. Probably, this cap was borrowed by the Bashkirs from the Mongols. Malachi were lined with fur, and the top is made of cloth or felt. The more prosperous Bashkirs liked to wear fez (fez), decorated with a brush. Like all Muslims, worshipers wore and still wear a turban.
Men's shoes
Bashkirs usually had light shoes on their feet: small leather galoshes and boots (ichigi). In solemn occasions, they wore both one and the other: at a party or in a mosque, galoshes were taken off the threshold, and elegant ichigi remained on their feet. Also, men under ichigi had either stockings or footcloths.
They put a lot of work into their national costume of the Bashkirs. The surrounding world in the elementary grades of the school offers the theme of national costume. Bashkir cannot be described in a nutshell. After all, what is the national costume of the Bashkirs? The description can take as much time and effort as it takes to write a scientific dissertation. However, looking at these magnificent embroideries and decorations, you can see the deep harmony with the world, an understanding of the beauty of folk traditions that came from antiquity. Both the male and female national costume of the Bashkirs are colorful and - most importantly - unique.
Linen
Bashkirs have long possessed the whole complex of skills in the cultivation of flax. Linen is much more perfect, thin, when compared with hemp, from which good ropes and ropes are made due to the length of the fiber. Bashkir women knew how to make linen fabrics of several varieties.
The coarser ones went to outerwear and men's pants, and the finer ones went to towels and holiday shirts. The canvas of the Bashkir craftswomen could turn out not only smooth and white, but also checkered and striped, the so-called motley. Such Bashkir fabrics were used for clothing and traditional home curtains.
Dyeing
When there was a staining of white flax with natural dyes (alder bark, herbs), the color scheme turned out to be warm, non-intense - from light yellow to dark brown. But when factory dyes appeared, the national costume of the Bashkirs shone with bright, saturated, even sophisticated colors. But even in the twentieth century, the ancient methods of staining are not forgotten.
In the fifties, they managed to capture how Bashkir girls, gathering for traditional festivities, painted their shawls with plantain leaves. First, a bright green stripe was made around the perimeter of the square, then the leaves were wrapped in a handkerchief in layers and bit by bit with teeth in different directions, forming a pattern.
It turned out diverging arcuate lines of bright green color, forming a border. The girls masterfully mastered this technique, the patterns turned out to be whimsical and unique. And in spring and summer festivities, every girl flaunted in a scarf, which she made herself.
Weaving
Homespun clothing is almost entirely the national costume of the Bashkirs. This is an absolutely female occupation, to which the girls were accustomed even before the age of ten, because for marriage, that is, for fifteen years, each had to prepare a dowry. And this is a very, very much work. All female Bashkirs national costume for themselves, clothes for the future husband, as well as for the mother-in-law and the father-in-law, all woven home decoration.
The home weaving machine at the Bashkirs was of a traditional frame construction and very similar to those machines used by the Russians. The Bashkirs were able to perform various weaving techniques: mortgage, elective, swearing and multi-cleared. Mortgage weaving - when there are not one ducks, but several, and all with multi-colored threads.
Bashkirs usually decorate the national costume with the main motive of the ornament - this is a step transition of color. Swearing weaving gives a vertical pattern, elongated in length, without sewing. Towels for ceremonies and curtains (charshau) were decorated with this technique. All peoples living near the Bashkirs preferred red-white patterns, the Bashkirs significantly expanded the color and ornamental borders in the towel patterns, the ornament is more similar to the Turkic one, and the color pattern was done on a red, yellow or brown field.
Aprons for the bride and groom
A traditional and very significant part of the clothes is an apron. He entered the unknown dowry and one more as a gift to the groom. This is generally casual clothes, aprons have always been worn by everyone, both women and men, but since this attribute is among wedding gifts, both were most elaborately ornamented. This is like a visiting card of all the skills of the bride. The male apron was motley, elective weaving, with narrow chests, with a rectangular cloth, crocheted with a black ornamental border using the tambour seam technique.
The women's apron was also elective weaving, tunic-like, with elegantly embroidered panels, a wide frill went down. Very smart item. When many factory fabrics appeared, they began to cut before them with a cutting belt and folds. Shuttlecocks and additional frills appeared. Sometimes two straps with wide frill, richly decorated and with assembly were sewn to the apron panel. The floral ornament of the embroidery was carried out very tightly, sometimes the fabric was not visible.
