The Tatar folk costume has come a long way in historical development. Naturally, clothes of the 8th-9th centuries are significantly different from the costume of the 19th century. But even in the modern one can meet national features: an increasing number of people today embrace an interest in history. In this article we will consider Tatar folk costumes. Their description will be given taking into account changes in time, territorial features. In addition, we will tell you about the jewelry used by the Tatars.
What can a costume tell us?
The Tatar folk costume (its features, characteristic features we will describe below) can tell us a lot. Clothing is the most striking determining element by which people are attributed to a particular nation. The costume also embodies the concept of the ideal image of a person who is a representative of a particular country. He can talk about the age, individual characteristics, character, social status, aesthetic tastes of the one he is wearing. At different times, the historical memory of this or that people, its moral standards and the desire for perfection and novelty, which is natural for man, were interwoven in clothes.
Features of the female costume of the Tatars
It should be noted that national characteristics are most clearly traced precisely in the women's costume. Since the fair sex is more emotional, they have a great need for beauty, their clothes differ not only among Tatars in their extraordinary originality.
Women's Tatar folk costume has an exotic color scheme. It is characterized by a fitted silhouette, the widespread use of a longitudinal shuttlecock, voluminous colors in the decoration, as well as jewelry and gowns.
The silhouette of the clothes of the Tatars is traditionally trapezoidal. The Tatar folk costume is embroidered. It is also characterized by the eastern saturation of various colors, the use of many ornaments. Both female and male Tatar folk costumes adorn the fur of a beaver, sable, marten, black-brown fox, which have always been highly appreciated.
The basis of women's and men's national costume
The basis of the female and male costume is made up of pants (in Tatar - Yyshtan), as well as a shirt (kulmek). Common until the mid-19th century was a tunic-like ancient shirt, which was sewn from a bent across the straight cloth, with gussets, without shoulder seams, with a cut on the chest and inserted side wedges. A shirt with a stand-up collar prevailed among the Kazan Tatars. Tatar differed from others in width and length. She was very loose, in length - to the knees, never belted, had wide long sleeves. Only the length differed female from male. The length of the female was almost to the ankles.
Only wealthy Tatars could afford to sew shirts from purchased expensive fabrics. They were decorated with braid, lace, colorful ribbons, frills. The Tatar folk costume (female) as an integral part in antiquity included the lower bib (tesheldrek, kukrekche). He wore a shirt with a neckline to hide the chest opening when moving.
Yshtan (trousers) - a common form of belt Turkic clothing. As part of it, it included, as we have already noted, both female and male Tatar folk costumes. Usually, men's trousers were sewn from a motley (striped fabric), and women wore mostly plain. Elegant wedding or holiday men were made from homespun fabric with bright small patterns.
Tatars shoes
The Tatars' most ancient type of shoes were leather boots, as well as shoes without welt, similar to modern slippers, which were necessarily with socks bent up, since you can not scratch mother earth with the toe of a boot. They were worn with canvas or cloth stockings called tula oek.
Even in the days of the ancient Bulgars, the processing of wool and leather reached a very high level. Safyan and yuft, made by them, were called "Bulgarian goods" in the markets of Asia and Europe. Archaeologists find such shoes in layers belonging to the 10-13th centuries. Even then it was decorated with applique, embossed, and also curly metal plates. Ichigi boots have reached our days - traditional soft shoes, very comfortable and beautiful.
Changing the national costume at the end of the 19th century
Clothing manufacturing technology changed at the end of the 19th century. The possibility of organizing sewing production in large volumes ensured the spread of sewing machines. This was immediately reflected in the style of clothing: the Tatar folk costume changed. Functionality began to prevail in the male. It was achieved thanks to a partial loss of decorative color.
Chekmen, Cossacks, camisoles, fur coats were made from various factory fabrics of dark colors. Gradually the Cossacks approached the frock coat. The clothes of the St. Petersburg Tatar with the national tied only a low standing collar. But older residents continued to wear camisoles and Cossacks of colored Bukhara fabrics.
Men also abandoned brocade jillans. They began to be made of moderately bright silk and cotton plain materials of green, light brown, beige and yellow. Such jilanas, as a rule, were decorated with hand-curly stitch.
Men's hats
Fur hats with a flat top of cylindrical shape were very popular. They were sewn entirely from karakul or from a strip of fur sable, marten, beaver with a cloth bottom. They wore a skullcap complete with a cap, called a kalyapush. It was made mainly of velvet of dark shades and was both with embroidery and smooth.
Men, as Islam spread, have a tradition of shaving or shaving mustaches and beards, as well as shaving their heads. The Bulgars noted the custom of covering it with hats. They were described by Ibn Fadlan, a traveler who visited these tribes in the 10th century.
Also gradually becoming more practical and easy women's Tatar folk costume. Cotton, silk and woolen fabrics are used, camisoles are made from brocade with a fine pattern applied to it, and later from velvet and brocade, more elastic materials.
Women's hats
In ancient times, a female headdress contained, as a rule, information about the family, social and age status of its owner. White soft hats, knitted or woven, worn by girls.
In their clothes there are also temporal and forehead jewelry - fabric strips with sewn pendants, beads, plaques.
Female Tatar folk costume (photo above) included a veil as a mandatory part. In the tradition of wearing it, the pagan views of antiquity on the magic of hair, which were later fixed by Islam, were reflected. According to this religion, it was recommended to cover the face, as well as hide the shape of the figure.
How did the Tatars wear a scarf?
In the 19th century, the veil was replaced by a scarf, which was a universal headdress for almost the entire female population of our country at that time.
But women of different nationalities wore it differently. Tatars, for example, tied their head tightly, having pulled a scarf deep down on their foreheads and tied their ends at the back of the head. And now they wear it like that. At the beginning of the 20th century, Tatars in St. Petersburg wore kalfaki, which had been reduced to about the size of tattoos, which were held on the head with the help of small hooks sewn from the inside.
Only kalfak was worn by girls, while married ladies threw light veils, scarves, silk shawls over it, leaving the house. Until today, Tatars retained the habit of wearing a shawl, skillfully draping their figure with this piece of clothing.
This is how the Tatar folk costume looks like. Its coloring is multicolored. The most common colors in national patterns are black, red, blue, white, yellow, brown, green, etc.
Jewelry Tatars
Not only the Tatar folk costume itself is interesting, a photo of which was presented above, but also the jewelry used by the Tatars. Women's jewelry was an indicator of the social status and wealth of the family. They were made, as a rule, of silver, inlaid with stones. At the same time, preference was given to bluish-green turquoise, which, according to the Tatars, possessed magical power. This stone was considered a symbol of a prosperous family life and happiness. The symbolism of turquoise is associated with the eastern legends of antiquity: as if it were the bones of dead ancestors long ago, the correct contemplation of which makes a person happy.
Brown carnelian, lilac amethysts, rhinestone and smoky topazes were also often used. Women wore bracelets, rings, rings of various kinds, as well as nakosniki, various gate fasteners called yak chylbyry. The chest strap was obligatory at the end of the 19th century, which was a synthesis of jewelry and amulets.
In the family, jewelry was inherited, gradually supplemented by new things. Komeshche - the so-called Tatar jewelers - usually worked on individual orders. This led to a huge variety of objects that have survived to this day.
